DINING OUT; French Fare in Port Chester, Country Style |
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And as pleasing was tender lamb Navarraise. Here the uniformly cubed morsels from the leg were cooked with onions and green pepper in a most successful, free-wheeling version of the stew called navarin. Vaguely piquant shrimps earned mixed reviews. On one visit the dish could not have been better; served with rice and a savory combination of zucchini and tomato, the excellent shrimps, vaguely piquant, bore the perfume of fresh garlic and herbs. But on another occasion this same rendition faltered because of a fusty, algal flavor of the shrimps themselves. Chicken also met with mixed success, and dark meat made the best bet here. In a simple but enormously effective preparation that employed fragrant anise, both drumstick and second joint remained juicy. Overly poached in white wine, chicken breast with mustard arrived unappetizingly dry. No sugar overkill marred the rich desserts here, but they arrived in daunting portions. Classic, creamy and intense, Le Radis Blanc's chocolate mousse should please even the most orthodox of chocoholics. Based on a cookie crust, apricot tart had the full flavor of the fruit, but dry apple tart may have outlived its freshness by a day. A wheel of refreshing, fruity mango sherbet might have served two. A three-course a la carte dinner averages $28 without drinks, tax and tip. A liquor license is expected momentarily; meanwhile, diners may bring their own wine. |
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