國際時事跟讀 Ep.K654: 梅西的影響:MLS串流訂閱激增 – 通勤學英語 15Mins Today – Podcast – Podtail

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2024-07-17 02:26:58| 来源: 网络整理| 查看: 265

台客雙聲帶,科學新世代:「台客聽科學」

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Topic: The Magazine Business, From the Coolest Place to the Coldest One

I miss magazines. It’s a strange ache, because they are still sort of with us: staring out from the racks at supermarket checkout lines; fanned wanly around the table in hotel lobbies; showing up in your mailbox long after the subscription was canceled, like an ex who refuses to accept the breakup.

æˆ‘æ‡·å¿µé›œèªŒï¼Œé€™æ˜¯ä¸€ç¨®å¥‡æ€ªçš„ç—›ï¼Œå› ç‚ºå®ƒå€‘åœ¨æŸç¨®ç¨‹åº¦ä¸Šä»èˆ‡æˆ‘å€‘åŒåœ¨ã€‚è¶…å¸‚æŽ’éšŠçµå¸³æ™‚ï¼Œå®ƒå€‘å¾žæž¶ä¸Šç›¯è‘—æˆ‘å€‘ï¼›åœ¨é£¯åº—å¤§å»³æ¡Œå­å‘¨åœæ†”æ‚´æ™ƒå‹•ï¼›å–æ¶ˆè¨‚é–±å¾ˆä¹…å¾Œé‚„æœƒå‡ºç¾åœ¨ä¿¡ç®±ï¼Œåƒæ˜¯æ‹’çµ•æŽ¥å—åˆ†æ‰‹çš„èˆŠæ„›ã€‚

But they’re also disappearing. This accelerating erosion has not been big news during a time of pandemic, war and actual erosion, and yet the absence of magazines authoritatively documenting such events, or distracting from them, as they used to do with measured regularity, is keenly felt.

ä½†å®ƒå€‘ä¹Ÿåœ¨æ¶ˆå¤±ã€‚åœ¨ç–«æƒ…ã€æˆ°çˆ­èˆ‡é›œèªŒçœŸçš„è¡°å¾®çš„æ™‚æœŸï¼Œé€™ç¨®åŠ é€Ÿè¡°å¾®ä¸¦ä¸æ˜¯ä»€éº¼å¤§æ–°èžï¼Œä½†äººå€‘æ•éŠ³åœ°æ„Ÿè¦ºåˆ°ï¼Œç¼ºä¹æ¬Šå¨æ€§é›œèªŒä¾†è¨˜éŒ„é€™äº›äº‹ä»¶ï¼Œæˆ–åƒéŽåŽ»é‚£æ¨£å®šæœŸçš„è®“æ³¨æ„åŠ›å¾žé€™äº›äº‹æƒ…è½‰ç§»ã€‚

Time marches on, or limps, but Life is gone. There’s no more Money. The print editions of their former sister publications Entertainment Weekly and InStyle, which once frothed with profit, stopped publishing in February. It’s been au revoir to Saveur and Marie Claire; shrouds for Playboy, Paper and O. (As I type this, people are tweeting about The Believer being bought by a sex-toy site.)

「時代」雜誌還在前進,或說蹣跚前行,但「生活」雜誌已經逝去。「金錢」雜誌沒了。它們以前的姊妹刊物「娛樂周刊」和「InStyle」印刷版曾獲利豐厚,但已在2月停止出版。大家向「Saveur」和「美麗佳人」告別,也讓「花花公子」、「紙」與O雜誌穿上壽衣。(就在我撰寫此文時,人們在推特上說「The Believer」被一個情趣用品網站收購了。)

Two recent books — “Dilettante,” by Dana Brown, a longtime editor at Vanity Fair, and a new biography of Anna Wintour, by Amy Odell, formerly of cosmopolitan.com — are graveyards of dead or zombie titles that were once glowing hives of human whim.

最近出版的兩本書,「浮華世界」資深編輯達納.布朗的「Dilettanteã€åŠæŸ¯å¤¢æ³¢ä¸¹å‰æˆå“¡è‰¾å’ªï¼Žæ­å¾·çˆ¾çš„å®‰å¨œæº«åœ–æ–°å‚³è¨˜ï¼Œæœ‰å¦‚äº¡è€…çš„å¢“åœ°ï¼Œæˆ–æ›¾æ˜¯äººé¡žå¥‡æƒ³çš„å…‰è¼å·¢ç©´å† ä¸Šäº†æ®­å±åè™Ÿã€‚

“There were so many magazines in 1994,” Brown writes. “So many new magazines, and so many great magazines. All the young talent of the moment was eschewing other industries and flocking to the business. It was the coolest place to be.”

布朗寫道:「1994年有很多雜誌。很多新雜誌,很多很棒的雜誌。當時所有年輕人才避開了其他行業,湧向這個行業。那是最酷的。」

Then suddenly the coldest. On the big fancy cruise ship that Brown had just boarded — Vanity Fair, where he’d been beckoned by Graydon Carter while a barback at the restaurant 44 — he and so many others then could only see the tip of an enormous iceberg they were about to hit: the internet. Smartphones, little self-edited monster magazines that will not rest until their owners die, were on the horizon. These may have looked like life rafts, but they were torpedo boats.

然後突然變成最冰冷的地方。布朗在44號餐廳吧檯用餐時,被總編輯卡特招攬,剛登上有如大型豪華郵輪的「浮華世界」,但他跟其他許多人只能看到他們即將撞上的巨大冰山一角:網路。智慧手機這種自我編輯、直到擁有者死去才會停止的小怪物雜誌也即將來臨。這些東西可能看起來像是救生艇,但它們其實是魚雷艦。

Every year, the American Society of Magazine Editors issues a handsome award, a brutalist-looking elephant called the Ellie, modeled after an Alexander Calder elephant sculpture. Any writer would be proud to have it on the mantelpiece.

æ¯å¹´ï¼Œç¾Žåœ‹é›œèªŒç·¨è¼¯å”æœƒéƒ½æœƒé ’ç™¼ä¸€é …å¤§çŽï¼Œé€™æ˜¯ä¸€é ­é‡Žç¸æ´¾é¢¨æ ¼ã€åå«ã€Œè‰¾åˆ©ã€çš„å¤§è±¡çŽåº§ï¼Œæ¨¡ä»¿è€ƒçˆ¾å¾·å¤§è±¡é›•å¡‘è¨­è¨ˆè€Œæˆã€‚ä½œå®¶éƒ½ä»¥æŠŠå®ƒæ”¾åœ¨å£çˆä¸Šç‚ºæ¦®ã€‚

The history of modern American literature is braided together with its magazines. The future can feel like a lot of loose threads, waving in the wind.

現代美國文學史與它的雜誌彼此交織在一起。未來就像是許多鬆散的線,在風中飄揚。Source article: https://udn.com/news/story/6904/6379678

Next Article

Topic: The Not-So-Glossy Future of Magazines

One evening in mid-September, a gaggle of writers and bon vivant editors gathered by the outdoor fireplace and ivy-covered trellis of a West Village tavern. Steak was served, and the toasts lasted late into the night, the revelry trickling out to the nearby sidewalk.

ä¹æœˆä¸­æ—¬çš„ä¸€å€‹å¤œæ™šï¼Œåœ¨è¥¿æ‘çš„ä¸€å®¶å°é…’é¤¨ï¼Œä¸€ç¾¤ä½œå®¶å’Œå–œæ­¡äº«å—ç”Ÿæ´»çš„ç·¨è¼¯å€‘èšé›†åœ¨ä¸€å€‹å®¤å¤–å£çˆå’Œå¸¸æ˜¥è—¤è¦†è“‹çš„æ ¼ç‹€æž¶å­æ—ã€‚ç‰›æŽ’ä¸Šæ¡Œå¾Œï¼Œçœ¾äººæ¯è§¥äº¤éŒ¯ç›´åˆ°æ·±å¤œï¼Œæ­¡é¬§è²æµç€‰åˆ°é„°è¿‘çš„äººè¡Œé“ä¸Šã€‚

It could have been a scene from the Jazz Age heyday of the Manhattan magazine set — or even the 1990s, when glossy monthlies still soaked up millions of dollars in advertising revenue, and editors in chauffeured town cars told the nation what to wear, what to watch and who to read.

é€™å¹•å ´æ™¯å¯èƒ½ä¾†è‡ªçˆµå£«æ™‚ä»£æ›¼å“ˆå¦é›œèªŒæ¥­å…¨ç››æ™‚æœŸï¼Œç”šè‡³æ˜¯90å¹´ä»£ï¼Œä»¥äº®å…‰ç´™å°åˆ·çš„æœˆåˆŠé‚„æ˜¯å»£å‘Šæ”¶å…¥æ·¹è…³ç›®ï¼Œç·¨è¼¯å€‘ååœ¨å¸æ©Ÿé§•é§›çš„è±ªè¯è½Žè»Šå…§ï¼Œå‘Šè¨´å…¨åœ‹è©²ç©¿äº›ä»€éº¼ã€æ¬£è³žä»€éº¼ã€é–±è®€ä»€éº¼äººçš„å¹´é ­ã€‚

This night, however, had an elegiac tinge. The staff of Vanity Fair was saluting the magazine’s longtime editor, Graydon Carter, who had announced that he was departing after a 25-year run. In the back garden of Carter’s restaurant, the Waverly Inn, star writers like James Wolcott and Marie Brenner spoke of their gratitude and grief.

不過,這一晚透著一種悲傷的況味。《浮華世界》的員工正向雜誌的長期總編輯葛雷登.卡特致敬。卡特在任職25年後,宣布即將離職。在卡特自家餐廳「韋佛利餐廳」的後花園中,一些明星作家如詹姆士.沃科特、瑪麗.布倫納都表達了他們的謝意和感傷。

Carter has always had a knack for trends. Within two weeks, three other prominent editors — from Time, Elle and Glamour — announced that they, too, would be stepping down. Another titan of the industry, Jann S. Wenner, said he planned to sell his controlling stake in Rolling Stone after a half-century.

卡特一向走在趨勢前端。不出兩星期,又有3位知名雜誌總編,分別是《時代》、《ELLEå¥¹ã€‹ã€ã€Šé­…åŠ›ã€‹çš„ç¸½ç·¨ä¹Ÿå®£å¸ƒæº–å‚™ä¸‹å°ã€‚å¦ä¸€å€‹æ¥­ç•Œå·¨é ­ï¼Œã€Šæ»¾çŸ³ã€‹å‰µåˆŠäººè©¹æ©ï¼Žæº«ç´å‰‡è¡¨ç¤ºï¼Œæ‰“ç®—å‡ºå”®ä»–åœ¨ã€Šæ»¾çŸ³ã€‹å·²ä¿æœ‰åŠå€‹ä¸–ç´€çš„æŽ§åˆ¶æ€§æŒè‚¡ã€‚

Suddenly, it seemed, long-standing predictions about the collapse of magazines had come to pass.

çªç„¶ä¹‹é–“ï¼Œé•·ä¹…ä¾†æœ‰é—œé›œèªŒæ¥­çµ‚å°‡å´©æ½°çš„é è¨€ï¼Œä¼¼ä¹ŽæˆçœŸäº†ã€‚

Magazines have sputtered for years, their monopoly on readers and advertising erased by Facebook, Google and more nimble online competitors. But editors and executives said the abrupt churn in the senior leadership ranks signaled that the romance of the business was now yielding to financial realities.

é›œèªŒæ¥­æ­¥å±¥è¹£è·šå·²æœ‰å¤šå¹´ï¼Œé›œèªŒå°è®€è€…å’Œå»£å‘Šçš„å£Ÿæ–·é­åˆ°è‡‰æ›¸ã€è°·æ­Œå’Œæ›´éˆæ´»çš„ç¶²è·¯ç«¶çˆ­å°æ‰‹ä¾µå¥ªã€‚ç·¨è¼¯å’Œé«˜ç®¡è¡¨ç¤ºï¼Œé«˜éšŽé ˜å°ŽéšŽå±¤çš„çªç„¶ç•°å‹•ï¼Œèªªæ˜Žé€™ä¸€è¡Œæ¥­çš„ç¾…æ›¼å²æ­£å‘è²¡å‹™ç¾å¯¦ä½Žé ­ã€‚

As publishers grasp for new revenue streams, a “try-anything” approach has taken hold. Time Inc. has a new streaming TV show, “Paws & Claws,” that features viral videos of animals. Hearst started a magazine with the online rental service Airbnb. Increasingly, the longtime core of the business — the print product — is an afterthought, overshadowed by investments in live events, podcasts, video, and partnerships with outside brands.

éš¨è‘—ç™¼è¡Œäººå°‹æ‰¾æ–°çš„æ”¶å…¥ä¾†æºï¼Œã€Œç„¡æ‰€ä¸è©¦ã€çš„ä½œæ³•é–‹å§‹å‡ºç¾ã€‚æ™‚ä»£å…¬å¸å› æ­¤æœ‰äº†æ–°çš„ä¸²æµé›»è¦–ç¯€ç›®ã€Šå¯µç‰©ã€‹ï¼Œä¸»è¦æ’­å‡ºç¶²è·¯ç˜‹å‚³çš„å‹•ç‰©å½±ç‰‡ã€‚èµ«æ–¯ç‰¹é›†åœ˜èˆ‡ç¶²è·¯å‡ºç§Ÿæœå‹™å…¬å¸Airbnbåˆè¾¦äº†ä¸€ä»½é›œèªŒã€‚ä½†æ˜¯é›œèªŒæ¥­é•·ä¹…ä»¥ä¾†çš„æ ¸å¿ƒâ”€ç´™æœ¬ç”¢å“å»è¶Šä¾†è¶Šåƒå¾Œä¾†æ‰æ·»åŠ çš„ç”¢å“ï¼Œå°æ–¼ç¾å ´ç›´æ’­ã€æ’­å®¢ã€å½±ç‰‡çš„æŠ•è³‡ï¼Œä»¥åŠå’Œå¤–é¢å“ç‰Œçš„åˆä½œé—œä¿‚ï¼Œéƒ½è®“ç´™æœ¬ç”¢å“é»¯ç„¶å¤±è‰²ã€‚

The changes represent one of the most fundamental shifts in decades for a business that long relied on a simple formula: glossy volumes thick with high-priced ads.

é€™äº›è®ŠåŒ–ä»£è¡¨é€™ä¸€è¡Œå‡ºç¾äº†æ•¸åå¹´ä¾†æœ€æ ¹æœ¬çš„è½‰è®Šï¼Œè€Œé€™å€‹è¡Œæ¥­ä¸€å‘ä»°è³´ä¸€å€‹ç°¡å–®å…¬å¼å­˜æ´»ï¼Œå…‰é®®äº®éº—çš„æ›¸å†Šå’Œæ»¿æ»¿çš„é«˜åƒ¹å»£å‘Šã€‚

“Sentimentality is probably the biggest enemy for the magazine business,” David Carey, president of Hearst Magazines, said in an interview. “You have to embrace the future."

èµ«æ–¯ç‰¹é›œèªŒé›†åœ˜ç¸½è£å¤§è¡›ï¼Žå‡±é‡Œå—è¨ªæ™‚èªªï¼šã€Œå¤šæ„å–„æ„Ÿææ€•æ˜¯é›œèªŒæ¥­æœ€å¤§çš„æ•µäººã€‚ä½ å¿…é ˆè¿Žå‘æœªä¾†ã€‚ã€ Source article: https://paper.udn.com/udnpaper/POH0067/319070/web/

Next Article

Topic: Edward Enninful Is Named Editor-in-Chief at British Vogue

Edward Enninful, the creative and fashion director of the U.S. magazine W, is set to replace Alexandra Shulman as editor-in-chief of British Vogue, its parent company, Conde Nast, confirmed Monday. The first man and the first black editor to take the helm of Britain’s most powerful fashion publication in its 100-year history, Enninful will begin his new role Aug. 1.

A top stylist and acclaimed fashion director who migrated to Britain from Ghana as a child, the 45-year-old Enninful is known for his cheerful demeanor, his legendary fashion covers and for having an army of loyal fans in and out of the fashion business. He received an Order of the British Empire in June for his services to diversity in the fashion industry.

英國版Vogue雜誌的母公司康泰納仕4月10日證實,美國W雜誌的創意與時尚總監艾德華.恩寧佛將接替亞歷珊卓.舒爾曼,擔任該雜誌總編輯。恩寧佛將在8月1日走馬上任,他將是這個英國最有影響力的時尚刊物創立一百年來,執掌大權的第一位男性,也是第一位黑人總編輯。 45æ­²çš„æ©å¯§ä½›æ˜¯é ‚å°–é€ åž‹å¸«å’Œå‚™å—è®šè­½çš„æ™‚å°šç¸½ç›£ï¼Œä»–å­©ç«¥æ™‚æœŸå¾žè¿¦ç´ç§»æ°‘è‹±åœ‹ï¼Œä»¥å¿«æ´»çš„èˆ‰æ­¢è¡¨æƒ…ã€å‚³å¥‡çš„æ™‚å°šé›œèªŒå°é¢ï¼Œä»¥åŠåœ¨æ™‚å°šåœˆå…§å’Œåœˆå¤–æ“æœ‰å¤§æ‰¹éµç²‰èžåã€‚åŽ»å¹´6æœˆç²é ’å¤§è‹±å¸åœ‹å‹³ç« ï¼Œè¡¨å½°ä»–å°æ™‚å°šç”¢æ¥­å¤šå…ƒåŒ–çš„è²¢ç»ã€‚

Conde Nast’s international chairman and chief executive, Jonathan Newhouse, called Enninful “an influential figure in the communities of fashion, Hollywood and music which shape the cultural zeitgeist,” and added that “by virtue of his talent and experience, Edward is supremely prepared to assume the responsibility of British Vogue.” The appointment comes three months after Newhouse named another man, Emanuele Farneti, to the helm of Italian Vogue, following the death of Franca Sozzani.

康泰納仕國際集團董事長兼執行長強納森.紐豪斯說,恩寧佛是「形塑時代思潮的時尚界、好萊塢和音樂界一位具有影響力的人物」,「憑他的才華和經驗,艾德華已為承擔英國版Vogue的責任做好了萬全的準備。」 åœ¨æ±ºå®šé€™é …ä»»å‘½çš„ä¸‰å€‹æœˆå‰ï¼Œç´è±ªæ–¯ä»»å‘½äº†å¦ä¸€ä½ç”·å£«è‰¾æ›¼ç´çˆ¾ï¼Žæ³•å…§æå‡ºæŽŒç¾©å¤§åˆ©ç‰ˆçš„Vogueï¼ŒæŽ¥æ›¿åŽ»ä¸–çš„æ³•è˜­åŠ ï¼Žç´¢è–©å¦®ã€‚

Enninful was an unexpected choice. Born in Ghana, Enninful was raised by his seamstress mother in the Ladbroke Grove area of London, alongside five siblings. At 16, he became a model for the British magazine i-D after being scouted while traveling on the Tube, London’s subway system. He has called modeling his “baptism into fashion.” By 17, he was assisting on photography shoots for the publication with the stylists Simon Foxton and Beth Summers. In 1991, at 18, he took over from Summers as i-D fashion editor, making him one of the youngest-ever leaders of a major fashion publication. He also obtained a degree from Goldsmiths, University of London.

恩寧佛是出人意料的人選。他在迦納出生,當裁縫的母親在倫敦蘭僕林區把他和5個兄弟姊妹撫養長大。16歲時,他在搭乘倫敦地鐵時被星探相中,成為英國i-D雜誌的模特兒。他把自己的模特兒經驗稱為「進入時尚界的受洗禮」。 到了17æ­²ï¼Œä»–å”åŠ©é€ åž‹å¸«è¥¿è’™ï¼Žä½›å…‹æ–¯é “å’Œè²çµ²ï¼Žæ¡‘é»˜æ–¯ç‚ºé€™æœ¬åˆŠç‰©æ‹æ”ç…§ç‰‡ã€‚1991å¹´18歲時,他取代桑默斯,成為i-Dé›œèªŒæ™‚å°šç·¨è¼¯ï¼Œä½¿ä»–æˆç‚ºä¸»è¦æ™‚å°šåˆŠç‰©æœ‰å²ä»¥ä¾†æœ€å¹´è¼•çš„ä¸»ç®¡ä¹‹ä¸€ã€‚ä»–ä¸¦å–å¾—å€«æ•¦å¤§å­¸é‡‘åŒ å­¸é™¢çš„æ–‡æ†‘ã€‚

Although there are a handful of notable exceptions, the fashion industry has a dearth of black power players, and that had been a source of immense frustration for Enninful, who has made a considerable effort to improve things. He has made headlines with accusations of racism, including after he was assigned to sit in the second row at a couture show in Paris in 2013 when white “counterparts” were in the first.

é›–ç„¶æœ‰å°‘æ•¸è‘—åçš„ä¾‹å¤–ï¼Œæ™‚å°šç”¢æ¥­æ¥µæ¬ ç¼ºæœ‰æ¬ŠåŠ›çš„é»‘äººï¼Œé€™ä¸€ç›´ä»¤æ©å¯§ä½›æ¥µæ„ŸæŒ«æŠ˜ï¼Œè€Œä»–å·²ç›¸ç•¶åŠªåŠ›ä»¥è¬€æ±‚æ”¹é€²ã€‚ä»–æ›¾å› æŒ‡æŽ§ç¨®æ—æ­§è¦–è€Œä¸Šäº†å¤§æ–°èžï¼ŒåŒ…æ‹¬2013å¹´åœ¨å·´é»Žä¸€å ´é«˜ç´šè¨‚è£½æœçš„ç§€ä¸Šï¼Œä»–è¢«æŒ‡å®šååœ¨ç¬¬äºŒæŽ’ï¼Œè€Œèˆ‡ä»–ã€Œåœ°ä½ç›¸ç•¶ã€çš„ç™½äººååœ¨ç¬¬ä¸€æŽ’ã€‚ Source article: https://paper.udn.com/udnpaper/POH0067/312421/web/



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